The first week, I did nothing. I walked the same white road every morning, past olive trees like old men hunched in conversation. I learned the order of the cicadas’ song—a rising whine that seemed to make the heat shimmer. I sat on the stone wall at the edge of the property and watched a lizard flick its tail, and I thought: This is it. This is all I have to do.
By the second week, I discovered the rhythm. Morning cool for writing in a notebook. Midday for the siesta, the bed linens clinging to my skin, the fan’s soft hum. Late afternoon for the walk down to the village, where the old men played cards in the piazza and the fountain ran cold and endless. Evening for pasta twirled around a fork, for the first glass of wine that tasted like the earth it came from. And night—night for the sky, so thick with stars it felt like a second country. summer month in italy
In the third week, I began to recognize faces. The baker who always gave me an extra cookie. The boy who rode his bicycle in circles around the fountain, practicing his whistle. The old woman who sat on the same bench every evening, her hands folded over a rosary she never seemed to use. I learned to say buongiorno like a local—not too loud, not too eager, just a nod and a murmur, as if we were all in on the same secret. The first week, I did nothing
