In the leaf-cutter ant hierarchy, the colony functions as a single superorganism. For most of the year, the queen sits deep within a labyrinthine nest, laying eggs tirelessly. But when the seasonal rains begin to soak the clay soils of the Andes—typically between late March and early June—the colony initiates a synchronized, biological spectacular: the vuelo nupcial , or the nuptial flight. On a specific morning, dictated by humidity and barometric pressure, the colony releases thousands of winged virgin queens and males. They take to the sky in a swirling, buzzing cloud, driven by the primal imperative to mate.
She treats hormigas culonas not as a gimmick, but as a serious ingredient. In her tasting menus, they might appear as a powder dusted over Amazonian fish, as an infusion in a butter sauce for native potatoes, or simply toasted and served with a foam of cocuy (a agave spirit). She has argued passionately that the ant is a victim of “food colonialism”—the idea that only European ingredients (wheat, beef, cheese) are “real food,” while indigenous ingredients are “primitive.” By serving hormigas culonas to international diners, she reclaims their dignity. hormigas culonas
When the Spanish arrived, they were initially horrified by entomophagy (insect-eating). However, hunger and curiosity eventually overcame disgust. Colonial chronicles note that Spanish settlers quickly came to appreciate the “little toasted grains” that the natives offered. Over centuries, the hormiga culona transcended the indigenous sphere to become a regional symbol of santandereanidad —the identity of the people of Santander. In the 21st century, the hormiga culona has leaped from the rustic budare to the white tablecloths of some of the world’s most avant-garde restaurants. This is due in no small part to the work of Colombian chef Leonor Espinosa, whose restaurant Leo in Bogotá has been repeatedly named one of the best in Latin America. Espinosa, an economist turned chef, has made it her mission to document, preserve, and elevate the biodiversity of Colombian cuisine. In the leaf-cutter ant hierarchy, the colony functions
There is also a darker side: the illegal harvest. Some unscrupulous harvesters have learned to dig up entire nests to extract the queens before their nuptial flight. This kills the colony entirely. It is the equivalent of cutting down an apple tree to pick its fruit. This practice is widely condemned by traditional culanderos , who have developed a sustainable ethic over generations. They know that leaving enough queens to fly and found new colonies ensures a harvest next year and the year after. On a specific morning, dictated by humidity and
In the high-altitude kitchens of Boyacá and Santander, Colombia, there exists a delicacy so prized, so deeply embedded in the pre-Columbian soul of the nation, that it commands prices per kilo rivaling prime beef and imported seafood. Its name is at once humorous and descriptive: hormigas culonas —a colloquial term that translates to “large-bottomed ants.” To the uninitiated, the concept of eating ants might evoke a survivalist’s last resort. But to the people of the Colombian altiplano, these insects are not a curiosity; they are a seasonal ritual, an ancestral legacy, and a crunchy, savory explosion of umami and toasted maize that marks the arrival of the rainy season.
Next comes the toasting. Traditionally, this is done on a budare —a large, flat, unglazed clay or cast-iron griddle set over a wood fire. No oil is used. The damp, clean ants are poured onto the hot surface. At first, they hiss and steam. A strange, earthy aroma fills the kitchen—damp forest floor, roasted nuts, and a sharp, vinegary note. This vinegar smell is formic acid, the ant’s natural defense, which is being driven off by the heat. (If the ants are not properly toasted, this acid can be irritating to the mouth.)