He developed a specific technique for releasing the rope late—what locals call the "Page Drag." By keeping the ski tensioned longer than anyone else, he would hit the bottom turn already at 40 mph, bypassing the chaotic "foam ball" that eats up lesser surfers.
He currently runs a small woodworking shop on the North Shore, building furniture for local families. He is likely wearing a faded t-shirt and sandals right now. He probably hasn't looked at the Surfline forecast in three days. eben page
Here is why Eben Page might just be the most fascinating—and most underrated—big-wave rider of his generation. While other surfers were cashing in on the "Eddie would go" fame of the early 2000s, Eben Page did something radical: he went home. He developed a specific technique for releasing the
He approaches a 60-foot drop like a chess grandmaster approaches checkmate. He reads the "peak" two waves before it arrives. He knows exactly where the "soup" will push him. He knows when to straighten out and live to paddle another day. During the golden era of tow-surfing at Jaws (Peahi), the spotlight shone on the big names. But the lifeguards and jet ski drivers knew the truth: Eben Page was the safest pair of hands in the lineup. He probably hasn't looked at the Surfline forecast
And that is the real lesson.
In a rare 2016 interview (one of only a handful he has ever given), Page said: "Panic is a luxury you can’t afford. When the water goes dark, you have to find the light in your own chest. That’s not bravery. That’s just training."